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power supplies eu to uk

MattSolo

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Hello Guys I have bought a product from Spain i just wondered if i could use this power supply on it

12V 6ADC Power Supply. Great for power LED Strips
Amazing Quality
Input: 100-240 Voltage , the cheap one on ebay is only 240V
Output: 12V DC 72Watt
Cable Length: 1.5m input plus 1.5m output
DC Jack Size: 5.5mmX2.5mm

The tech specs for the eu plug are

Input: 100-240 V 0.5A MAX 50/60 Hz
Output: 12V 1.5A
Protection: Short, overvoltage

or could I use something like a Zgemma plug?

Power Adpter I am Looking at.webpEU plug.webp

Thanks in Advance
 
Once it can supply 1.5A @ 12v and can accept 240v it will be fine. A 6A supply is a bit of an overkill but it will work. you surely must have something else around the house you can repurpose?
 
Once it can supply 1.5A @ 12v and can accept 240v it will be fine. A 6A supply is a bit of an overkill but it will work. you surely must have something else around the house you can repurpose?

Not at the moment mate i just moved house
 
6A should be fine, that's just the maximum output. The box will only draw what it needs.
 
I never liked those 2 pin types as prefare a tighter fit in socket which you had to buy also.
Are they standard sizes as many here have different size holes and still wondering what it was for.
 
6A should be fine, that's just the maximum output. The box will only draw what it needs.

I always thought you based the maximum output on what the device needs, if it goes faulty you could be be pushing way too many amps thru' it.
 
Current Rating
A constant-voltage supply doesn’t determine the current: the load, which in this case is the device, does. If Johnny wants to eat two apples, he’s only going to eat two whether you put 2, 3, 5, or 20 apples on the table. A device that wants 2 A of current works the same way. It will draw 2 A whether the power supply can only provide the 2 A, or whether it could have supplied 3, 5, or 20 A. The current rating of a supply is what it can deliver, not what it will always force thru the load somehow. In that sense, unlike with voltage, the current rating of a power supply must be at least what the device wants but there is no harm in it being higher. A 9 volt 5 amp supply is a superset of a 9 volt 2 amp supply, for example.
 
I wonder why table lamps, for example, have a 2 or 3 amp fuses, when 13 amps could be pushed thru' when it fails?
 
Safety as if it had a 13amp one might fry.
I feel safer having a supply of fuses for my needs and using 13amp on a kettle lead.
 
I wonder why table lamps, for example, have a 2 or 3 amp fuses, when 13 amps could be pushed thru' when it fails?
So that if there is a short and you touch it you only get 2A before it blows, not 13A?
 
So that if there is a short and you touch it you only get 2A before it blows, not 13A?

So using an over-rated power supply is not recommended unless the device has got the right sized fuse.
 
Fuses in plugtops (or MCBs in consumer units (fuseboards)) are there to protect the wiring from going on fire in the event of high current draw. Lamp circuits in households are typically on 6A breakers or fuses because the wiring is not rated to carry much more. A 2A or 3A fuse in a plugtop is not to prevent you being killed in the event that you touch a live wire. RCDs in your consumer unit trip at 30mA leakage current to protect you if you short a live wire to ground through your body.
Using a higher rated power supply to supply a device (at the proper DC voltage) is not an issue as the device will only draw its rated current. Using a lower rated power supply could be a problem if it overheats and causes a fire. Biggest issue I see is the use of european plugs which require some form of adaptor to fit into a UK 13 amp socket. Loose fitting adaptors may cause a certain amount of arcing at high current draw.
 
I wonder why table lamps, for example, have a 2 or 3 amp fuses, when 13 amps could be pushed thru' when it fails?

The fuse is to protect the wire to the equipment or table lamp. Pushing 13A through a wire possibly rated at less than 5A will result in it getting hot and if left in the fault state maybe melting the insulation and/or catching fire. However this doesn't stop some far east manufacturers incorrectly fitting 13A fuses nor does it stop them fitting non approved 13Amp plugs (such as plugs with part insulted earth pins

Code:
https://www.pat-testing-training.net/articles/non-sleeved-plugs.php

or with plastic earth pins that are not tapered at the top resulting in potential damage to the socket).
 
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I wonder why table lamps, for example, have a 2 or 3 amp fuses, when 13 amps could be pushed thru' when it fails?

1) If you have a bulb that starts an arc (shorts) when it fails a 3 amp fuse rather than a 13 amp one can be the difference between the fuse just blowing and the bulb exploding. It's rare but I've seen it happen.

2) A lower current fuse means less chance of a fire if any weird over current fault develops.
 
So using an over-rated power supply is not recommended unless the device has got the right sized fuse.
Maybe.
But a fire or any kind of dangerous damage is much less likely at 12V than at 240V.
 
... Cheers, I was replying to someone who said "there is no harm in it (a power supply) being higher".

I've always assumed that the fuse (or circuit breaker) was the key, anything else (like replacing a fuse with a 6 inch nail) is asking for trouble.

PC battery's have been know to catch fire, and milliamps can kill, so advice on "power" needs to be left to the professionals.
 
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6A should be fine, that's just the maximum output. The box will only draw what it needs.

That is correct.
I regularly use 12v 2amp or 2.5amp power supplies on electronic projects, even tho the project will only draw less than 1 amp in some cases
 

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